This post was meant to describe the beginning of our Danube trip in Sulina to Sulina, starting on the 3rd of April in 2020. But then came Covid-19 which changed the world and our plans, and led to a re-titling:
Boating in the time of Coronavirus
In March 2020, the world closed down, due to Covid-19, the coronavirus which meant, amongst many other more difficult and serious consequences, that marinas, places of cultural interest such as museums and churches, restaurants and cafes and all mass events like concerts or festivals were closed or cancelled. Borders, even between neighbouring European countries were totally closed and it wasn't possible even to visit our boat Sulina to check that she was still afloat in the marina in Straßburg where she was lying, let alone work on the boat. Travel was out of the question and we scoured the news for any hint that the restrictions would be lifted.
But two options were available still. The first was preparation that could be done at home, so we merrily set to work, making the bimini and windbreak and other small essentials.
We made or acquired the guest flags for all the countries we would pass by on our way to Istanbul, where we hoped to leave our boat over the winter. We already had the flag of Germany, our homeland, so that left Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Rumania, Ukraine and Turkey. Additionally, we made the international flag for quarantine, just in case it would be needed!
The necessary documents were procured, such as crew lists, international boat license, and permission to travel the Danube.
With the Danube Delta in mind, we even remembered mosquito nets, one for us and enough for our potential guests!
The other possibility open to us was to complete the stretch from the source of the Danube to Ulm in 'Sebastian', our rubber dinghy. We had already travelled most of the way by foot, bike or rubber dinghy. Only two small sections were still remaining: Beuron to Sigmaringen and Sigmaringen to Hundersingen, each about 20 kilometers long. But these two sections, going through areas of outstanding natural beauty, have very specifically limiting requirements! Only 10 private boats per day are allowed on the water and the water in the river must have a certain minimum level. Obviously no one wants to spend 10 hours paddling in the rain either, so a dry day is also called for.
At last all these conditions were met, and in May as the restrictions due to Corona were finally lifted and boats allowed on the Danube again, we managed to paddle to Sigmaringen, landing in the golden evening light at the park of the Sigmaringen Castle, tired but happy once again to have been on the water.
And on the 10th of June, earlier than expected, according to government announcements, we were able to cross the border over the Rhein and into France to our marina in Straßburg once again. Sulina was there and we were all happy to see one another again! Three days of painting and other work on the boat brought back the enthusiasm for our trip, which will obviously look somewhat different now that three months have been lost due to corona. And we will have to see what develops regarding borders. An exciting prospect!
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